Oecussi, Timor-Leste

Oecussi was the first part of the island of Timor-Leste on which the Portuguese established themselves, in fifteenth century.

Oecussi is a coastal exclave in the western part of the island of Timor. It is separated from the rest of Timor-Leste (East) by West Timor, which is part of the province of Nusa Tenggara Timur, Indonesia, and which surrounds Oecussi in all directions except the north, where it borders the Savu Sea. It has an area of 815 square kilometres.

Oecussi is a district in Timor-Leste situated around 12 hours by ferry boat from the capital Dili. This boat connects to Dili twice a week. It can also be reached by road via Indonesia, this takes around six hours. This route requires visa authorisation from Timor-Leste’s authorities and a visa on arrival from the Indonesian government. A third, and quickest, option is by UN helicopter four days per week, although waiting lists tend to be long.

The capital of Oecussi district is Pante Macassar, which is also known as Oecussi town. Oecussi is divided into four sub-districts; Nitibe, Oesilo, Pante Macassar, and Passabe. The sub-districts are divided into 19 sucos (communities) in total. Just like any other district in Timor-Leste, most of the inhabitants are Roman Catholic. They speak Tetum, the official language of Timor-Leste, Portuguese and Indonesian.

The vast majority of Oecussi people – around 82 per cent – have always relied on agriculture for their livelihood. Oecussi farming practice tends overwhelmingly towards a subsistence model, and traditional markets commonly feature the bartering of goods as a mode of transaction. The major crops are cassavas and rice.

Attempts to increase economic activity in Oecussi through agriculture or agro-forestry will need to address the challenges of a dry climate, poor soils and mountainous topography, that offers little flat land for large-scale agriculture. Rainfall in Oecussi, as across Timor, falls mostly from November to April.

Life in Oecussi is pleasant but basic. There is a small number of restaurants and almost no nightlife. Shops are generally well stocked, with many imported goods from Indonesia, and markets have a good stocking of local products ranging from fruit to beef. Electricity is sparse, mainly for the evenings, and with regular black-outs. Hence, cooled and frozen products tend to be less available than fresh or canned goods. Both a vegetarian and a vegan diet are possible to maintain in Oecussi.